The Walk
Day 6 – Thursday 19th June, 2008 – Shap to Kirkby Stephen
A hearty breakfast at 8.15 for Val and Celia, the rest of us
settled for cereal, scrambled eggs and toast, which was served
in the restaurant, with shop style windows we did feel a little
bit on show to passersby. Our hostess couldn’t do enough for us,
extra tea, coffee and toast was brought to our table without
having to ask for it.
Having paid our bill, we were out walking at 9am, which is good
going for us, usually one or other was on the drag, but with a
21 mile walk ahead of us, we needed to get started. Fortunately
we were just across the road from the start of the walk. We
started well and were doing fine until we crossed the M6, when
our group decided to follow the Canadian group, not a good move!
After a while of wandering around a field, I took charge and
guided us to the correct path which turned out to be one of
gentle hills and slopes, making it a good start to the day after
all. There were a number of times during the day (and days that
followed), that the Canadian group could be seen wandering
around checking map and compass and generally looking lost, but
as soon as they saw us, they tagged along for a while and then
off they went again. We were later to find out that they were
all ‘leading’ the group!
Most of the morning we were walking with cloudy skies, but by
the afternoon we had rain and hail for just about all of it.
This made it very unpleasant as we were facing the wind for a
while.
We decided not to go to Orton, but we did see the white tower of
the church in the distance. Lunch was eaten beside a stone wall
in a field where cows had once been, with views of Orton Scar.
Finding a place to sit, out of the wind and away from cow pats
was a bit of a challenge, but as we were all desperate for
something to eat we settled for this field.
Lunch
near Orton Scar
Walking across Tarn Moor was uneventful, but as we emerged from
the moor the sight of Sunbiggin Tarn cheered us all. It’s a good
job our spirits were high as the next three or four miles was
road walking, and although there was not much traffic, it’s not
the best place to walk. So with heads down and a purpose to get
off the road as soon as we could, we set off with the wind
behind us. By the time we had reached Severals Village
(archaeological site), it was pouring with rain and was
extremely slippery underfoot.
We passed through a field of cattle which included a rather
large bull, being a country gal, this didn’t phase me too much,
providing I could get the rest of the group to be quiet, stop
waving their arms about, stay together, and to use their sticks
as they were intended to be used – walking poles. I did worry a
little as the one member of our group was wearing a red jacket!
We were totally ignored by the bull and his herd, the thing that
amazed me was the fact that not all members in our group
realised that there was a bull in the field, they were worried
about cattle in general. When I told them after we had exited
the field they were a little shocked to say the least.
After Smardale Bridge we climbed up the fell and somehow, we
took the wrong path and ended up at Crosby Garrent, way off
track, so much for Stedman!! Actually it wasn’t his fault we
misread the instructions, and didn’t bother to check GPS and
maps!!! I think that we were getting tired and hungry plus the
fact that it started to rain; well that’s my excuse!
We were soon on track again and enjoyed the views of Kirkby
Stephen ahead of us, with anticipation of a hot bath/shower and
food.
We arrived at Redmayne House to a lovely welcome, tea/coffee and
cakes awaited us all served in a beautiful room
Redmayne house is a delightful well preserved Victorian building
and inside the owners have managed to retain just about all of
the original features including a toilet with a very large lid.
Toilet
with large wooden lid
Val & Di’s room housed a large old welsh dresser, complete with
crockery, along with very large wardrobes and tables. Jenny and
Celia had the room next to me which had a double and a single
bed in it, and on the double bed there was a hand sewn quilt
made up in the design of the ‘double wedding ring’. It was
beautiful and I just wanted to sit and look at it forever,
someone had not only the time and patience to make it but also
the skills. My room was very small, but I did have the best view
in the house of St. Hedda church tower.
The bathroom was something else…..with a large double fronted
chest, rocking chair, wooden towel rails and rugs on the floor
with pictures as well as all the usual things you find in a
bathroom, - toilet, bath etc.
After we all freshened up we headed out for food, and settled
for the Kings Arms, (there are so many places to eat in Kirkby
Stephen, that one is spoilt for choice). As I had to get the GPS
and maps ready for tomorrows walk, I went back to Redmayne House
while the rest of the group had another drink. Climbing the
stairs I was met by a young fit looking man dressed in just a
towel….. there are some good bits to being the group leader.