The Walk
Day 7 – Friday 20th June, 2008 – Kirkby Stephen to Keld (Tan Hill)
I woke up at around 5am and wrote up the log, and read a little
bit about the days walk, sorted bags and was showered and packed
ready to go by 8am. I could hear that Jenny was up and about
went in to see how they were getting on and remind them that we
needed to get going as breakfast would be ready in fifteen
minutes. Jenny was up and packed ready…..
Breakfast at Redmayne House was served in the dining room and we
shared the large table with a couple who were on holiday from
Sweden. The food was excellent and again miles too much for me.
We decided to get a roll from the bakery for lunch, plus the
fact that one member of the group had not sorted out the blister
on her foot, so we were delayed further, and started out on the
path around 10am.
The walk up to Nine Standards was fairly easy, with sun and high
clouds for most of the walk. We took the obligatory photographs
at the ‘rest a while’ bench.
Val taking a rest on the 'rest a while' seat
There was a great deal of military aircraft flying around and
they did detract from the beauty of the area. Just as we were
nearing the summit, the storm clouds gathered and we out came
the water/wind proofs.
We took our photographs on the summit and made a hasty retreat
down.
Hang on to your hat Jenny
We should not have taken the blue route at this time of the
year, so we were the only ones on this descent. It was very
boggy and the gaiters came into good use. We found a nice spot
out of the wind to enjoy the views while eating our lunch.
The path was difficult along Whitsundale Beck with few places to
place your feet, however, we managed to get down safely.
We walked through Ravenseat Farm without stopping for tea as it
hadn’t been long since our lunch stop. The path was easy to
follow with Whitsundale Beck to the right of us we passed a
number of old stone barns that are in the main, no longer in
use.
Walking
up Close Hills near Ravenseat Farm
In a particularly beautiful spot we stopped for a short break,
with the some of the best views in Yorkshire, (how anyone
decides which is the best view in this part of the world escapes
me!).
Arriving at the B6270 we strolled (it was one of those
afternoons where one does not want to be hurried), along the
road until we came to Wainwarth Force. Out came the cameras to
capture this delightful waterfall.
A little further along the road was the turn off for Tan Hill,
our overnight stop. We climbed up the road to West Stonesdale
and planned to telephone for a lift up to the Inn from there,
only BT being what it is, no coins accepted and no other way of
paying! They will tell us that this telephone box will be
removed due to lack of use!
I knocked on the door of one of the cottages, and a friendly
young farmers wife – Sue Cowpathwaite – greeted us and let us
use her telephone. While we waited for our lift Sue gave us an
insight into sheep farming life, her knowledge of Swaledale sheep
was pretty extensive, I could have listened to her all day she
was so interesting.
Eventually we were picked up in a Landrover with no seats in the
back where four of us scrambled into with sticks and rucksacks
sticking in some of the most awkward places. We reflected on the
fact that it was a long way up and we were glad that we didn’t
have to walk it on this hot afternoon. We arrived at Tan Hill at
5.45 having walked around 17 km.
Joy of joys, they could not find our booking, however, Tan Hill
being just about the only place in the UK where you will not be
turned away, they took us via the kitchen, to a very small room
with two sets of bunk beds (and a very low ceiling), and a blow
up mattress on the floor. This room had a tiny window that did
not open and very little floor space.
We decided that at least it was a bed and it was only for one
night. We went to the bar for a well earned drink (tonic water
for me), and were told that an Australian group were booked into
that room and we had to move! Ouch, we had just about settled
in.
After scrambling around in the tiny room to repack the few
things that we had unpacked, we were ushered through the
kitchen, through the pantry and through the vegetable store to
an annex. Wow, I’m glad we were not booked in! A kitchen, lounge
diner with lovely views, a shower and a large bedroom with a
huge double bed (Jenny and I got that), a set of bunk beds for
Di and Val and Celia (being the youngest) was happy with the
mattress on the floor.
The local sheep were continually trying to get into both the
annex and the bar and it was a challenge to keep them out. This
is one of those places that one should experience at least once
in their lifetime, I have, twice and still love the place. There
was a cat curled up on one settee and a dog on another in the
bar, with four ducklings in a box beside the fire. It was a
picture of country life in the raw, without the ‘twee’ frills
that you see in country magazines.
Tan
Hill Ducklings
The landlady, Tracey kept her staff in line and there was no
room for arguments, she runs a strict ship up there. Tim in the
kitchen, a young lad was a bit on the shy side, but did come
round by the time we left and Victoria our waitress was lovely.
Our bar meal of eggs and chips was good. The bar filled up
considerably and most of the people there were locals, who I
guess just wanted to come and chat to the walkers.
Jenny and I retired around 9.30 the rest of the group stayed for
coffee, then came back to the annex and fed the sheep through
the window, I’m not sure that they should have been fed crisps,
but hey, they enjoyed it! Jenny did Sudoku and I fell asleep.